I have two 15 inch Kicker CVR which are 500 RMS at 4 ohms, in a sealed box, i currently dont have plans to change how they are wired or use a new box as i am just using these until i save enough for a more powerful subs, that is also why i want to try to get a good amp that is 1 ohm stable and with decent power right now. A 3db increase in power does equal an increase of twice as much power measured in watts, but don't get caught up in watts into 8 or 4 ohm speakers and speaker sensitivity. If watts are good then a 4 ohm speaker would be better than an 8 ohm speaker. And a 2 ohm speaker would be even better than a 4 ohm speaker.
My car came with a basic no frills generic junk audio system, the head unit is probably under 20 watts power, more like under 15. One of the two rear deck speakers started sounding scratchy so I decided to replace them both. Without much thought I bought a pair of Rockford-Fosgate Punch (4-ohm). After ripping out the rear deck (The idiots who designed this car made it that way!),I discovered the El-Cheepo brand speakers were 2-ohm.
Now I'm wondering if I've been a real idiot in replacing 2-ohm with 4-ohm speakers! Will my car catch fire? My car came with a basic no frills generic junk audio system, the head unit is probably under 20 watts power, more like under 15. One of the two rear deck speakers started sounding scratchy so I decided to replace them both. Without much thought I bought a pair of Rockford-Fosgate Punch (4-ohm).
After ripping out the rear deck (The idiots who designed this car made it that way!),I discovered the El-Cheepo brand speakers were 2-ohm. Now I'm wondering if I've been a real idiot in replacing 2-ohm with 4-ohm speakers! Will my car catch fire?
No, your car will not catch fire, but the power available to the rear speakers has been halved.Most likely your radio does not contain an inverter to increase voltage to the audio system. So if there is no inverter then the maximum rail voltage available to the rail voltage of the power transistors is 12 volts.
So this is where the low impedance of the drivers is an advantage. Power delivered is the square of the voltage divided by the impedance. So for a two ohm speaker we get a theoretical maximum of 72 watts into the 2 ohm speakers, but 36 watts into 4 ohm ones. The actual power able to be delivered will be a bit less.The bottom line is that you have lost 3db of output to your rear speakers. My car came with a basic no frills generic junk audio system, the head unit is probably under 20 watts power, more like under 15. One of the two rear deck speakers started sounding scratchy so I decided to replace them both.
Without much thought I bought a pair of Rockford-Fosgate Punch (4-ohm). After ripping out the rear deck (The idiots who designed this car made it that way!),I discovered the El-Cheepo brand speakers were 2-ohm. Now I'm wondering if I've been a real idiot in replacing 2-ohm with 4-ohm speakers!
Will my car catch fire? I installed car audio systems for a long time and I should have caught the Rockford reference to see the OP has a GM. Once the car makers realized that they were leaving millions of dollars on the table, they had someone like Rockford Fosgate design the audio section in their head units (GM),Infinity to supply speakers and amplifiers- Chrysler) or Bose to design the amplifiers and speakers (GM, Nissan, etc) or eventually someone like Harmon to sell the system as Mark Levinson/JBL. VW has used Dynaudio in some of the optional systems in their upper line cars. Much of the equipment sold before about '94 (GM started using Rockford-Fosgate around that time),the aftermarket car audio industry volume was around $8Billion.One thing the newly improved system designs included was brand-specific speakers, with odd impedance. GM used 6 Ohm speakers for a long time and before the dawn of higher output with floating ground amplifiers, they didn't even use a second wire- they just connected the speaker - to a tab that was riveted to the speaker frame and used the car body as the common.
I have seen 10, 6, 4 and 2 Ohm speakers and sometimes, the OEM head unit was completely unable to deal with anything lower than the original speakers.If this is a Chrysler/Infinity system from the early-late-'90s, the amplifier might be under the package tray (also called the 'rear deck') where the speakers are mounted. Nissan sometimes used a similar location, but they also hid it somewhere to the side.I agree- some OEM systems do sound pretty decent. At this point, I would only replace damaged speakers and even then, I don't want to jump through any hoops to do it. I have a Chevy Astro and one speaker's surround fell apart- I hated everything about replacing it. I might replace the head unit with something that has a Bluetooth receiver built in- the one that plugs into the lighter is very flaky, but it actually sounds fairly un-crappy. I installed car audio systems for a long time and I should have caught the Rockford reference to see the OP has a GM. Once the car makers realized that they were leaving millions of dollars on the table, they had someone like Rockford Fosgate design the audio section in their head units (GM),Infinity to supply speakers and amplifiers- Chrysler) or Bose to design the amplifiers and speakers (GM, Nissan, etc) or eventually someone like Harmon to sell the system as Mark Levinson/JBL.
VW has used Dynaudio in some of the optional systems in their upper line cars. Much of the equipment sold before about '94 (GM started using Rockford-Fosgate around that time),the aftermarket car audio industry volume was around $8Billion.One thing the newly improved system designs included was brand-specific speakers, with odd impedance. GM used 6 Ohm speakers for a long time and before the dawn of higher output with floating ground amplifiers, they didn't even use a second wire- they just connected the speaker - to a tab that was riveted to the speaker frame and used the car body as the common. I have seen 10, 6, 4 and 2 Ohm speakers and sometimes, the OEM head unit was completely unable to deal with anything lower than the original speakers.If this is a Chrysler/Infinity system from the early-late-'90s, the amplifier might be under the package tray (also called the 'rear deck') where the speakers are mounted. Nissan sometimes used a similar location, but they also hid it somewhere to the side.I agree- some OEM systems do sound pretty decent. At this point, I would only replace damaged speakers and even then, I don't want to jump through any hoops to do it.
I have a Chevy Astro and one speaker's surround fell apart- I hated everything about replacing it. I might replace the head unit with something that has a Bluetooth receiver built in- the one that plugs into the lighter is very flaky, but it actually sounds fairly un-crappy. There has been some talk about moving from 12-volt to as high as 48-volt last time I read up on this. I used to sell inverters like they were candy. Things are really changing due to newer technologies in the automobile environment. Even my PT Cruiser has a decent factory sound system in it.
It is amazing how much better factory sound systems has gotten.AC outlets in a vehicle does not surprise me one bit. Many are used for game systems to entertain the kids/grand kids. Especially, on longer drives/trips. Having dual zone capability makes it work together very well.
When it comes to head units, I prefer Pioneer!Cheers,Phil. I'm gonna guess that there may also be some active filtering going on there. It's a guess, TLS likely has a better guess than me.My Nissan Murano has Bose, it is actually pretty decent. I already seen the forums on how to improve performance on the sub, but I'm not touching it until after the warranty period expires. Guaranteed, if I do mess with it and then have a warranty claim, they will try to use that to weasel out of a repair.What I do like is that the amp and sub are one unit, and cleverly designed to fit in/around the spare tire in the rear floor panel.
There has been some talk about moving from 12-volt to as high as 48-volt last time I read up on this. I used to sell inverters like they were candy. Things are really changing due to newer technologies in the automobile environment.
Even my PT Cruiser has a decent factory sound system in it. It is amazing how much better factory sound systems has gotten.AC outlets in a vehicle does not surprise me one bit. Many are used for game systems to entertain the kids/grand kids. Especially, on longer drives/trips. Having dual zone capability makes it work together very well.
When it comes to head units, I prefer Pioneer!Cheers,Phil. Yes, we should move to 48 volts.
![What hits harder 1 ohm or 4 ohm 2 What hits harder 1 ohm or 4 ohm 2](https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/3-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg)
For modern electric steering 12 volts is too low. As batteries get old the voltage can and does drop when suddenly engaging the electric steering, sending you into oncoming traffic. I already got the GM warning but no solution.Well there is a solution according to BMW, and that is to install an expensive ICE battery which can produce high instantaneous current and change it every four years by the calendar. That is what I have done.In studies voltages as low as 7 volts have been recorded at instances at the steering servo and controller. That makes it go haywire and is very dangerous.We have had a number of unexplained head on crashes on rural roads in Minnesota in the recent past. I'm pretty sure I know the cause.Before you install an battery ICE though, you must know that your voltage regulator is temperature compensated.The funny thing was that GM could not tell me if my high frequency voltage regulator was temperature compensated or not.
So I had to do my own tests to find out that it was! I'm gonna guess that there may also be some active filtering going on there. It's a guess, TLS likely has a better guess than me.My Nissan Murano has Bose, it is actually pretty decent.
I already seen the forums on how to improve performance on the sub, but I'm not touching it until after the warranty period expires. Guaranteed, if I do mess with it and then have a warranty claim, they will try to use that to weasel out of a repair.What I do like is that the amp and sub are one unit, and cleverly designed to fit in/around the spare tire in the rear floor panel. My Durango has a JBL (Harmon) system and it sounds great. First vehicle I've ever owned that I feel doesn't need anything added to the sound system.Worst car audio install I ever did was dash speakers in my parent's full size GMC van. Had to remove the ENTIRE dash to get to them. Then I had to remember where all the vacuum hoses went for the AC controls. Super fun that I had to do it twice because my dad blew the speakers.
Who knew cheap 4x6 speakers wouldn't handle high volume? Well, I put a high pass filter on them the second time and they were fine.I don't miss doing installs. Too many screwy things can make something that should be easy anything but. There has been some talk about moving from 12-volt to as high as 48-volt last time I read up on this. I used to sell inverters like they were candy. Things are really changing due to newer technologies in the automobile environment. Even my PT Cruiser has a decent factory sound system in it.
It is amazing how much better factory sound systems has gotten.AC outlets in a vehicle does not surprise me one bit. Many are used for game systems to entertain the kids/grand kids.
Especially, on longer drives/trips. Having dual zone capability makes it work together very well. When it comes to head units, I prefer Pioneer!Cheers,Phil.
After I stopped doing car audio, I moved into servicing boats and when I went to Mastercraft ski boat service training, we discussed the upcoming hybrid cars, which use a 48VDC system that has the starter mounted concentrically with the drive shaft. It requires less current to crank an engine at 48V than at 12V. The accessories were powered by one of the 12V batteries, with some of the early systems using four batteries, in series or a large battery with a 12V tap. This training session was in 1998.
If you managed to get some of the new Orion 1.0 ohm pods and want to use them before they put out an official update for the DNA Orion versus the new non-DNA Orion Q, then you do so by putting your eScribe into manufacturer mod, and setting the resistance range of one of the modes within the range of the pod. I have mine set in 'DL' mode to.8 and 1.2 and then the wattages from 8-15 watts through the three modes. This lets me still have my MTL mode for.5 ohm pods. I have a feeling it may take a while for Evolv to get around to the update, so there is your cheater way to set it up for functionality.However, the device seems to want to fire only up to 12 watts for some reason according to the active monitoring. Thats sufficient for 1.0 ohm, but there definitely seems to be a ceiling and honestly it doesnt vape well enough to warrant me going into deeper settings or analytics to find out why.Also, a quick aside, the pod is designed differently for a 1 ohm with what seems to be extra plastic molding for more doming and restriction towards the top of the coil section of the pod in effort to make it more 'Mouth to Lung' but it fails pretty badly. They tried to restrict it to feel more MTL like a juul, zero, suorin, etc pod system, but you have to run it either with just a pinhole or completely off to make it feel similar to any true MTL style system. It will also still cough you to death and hits very, very rough with air restricted to what I would consider MTL levels with nicotine salts.
It vapes fine in direct to lung with possibly a little bit better flavor versus the.5 pod. Its not going to do well as a true MTL pod with their current airflow configurations.In the new Orion Q, it vapes pretty much the same but just slightly stronger. Probably a preset voltage or wattage setting on a sliding scale depending on the pod inserted. I did a bit of checking about this 1 ohm pod. Apparently it has a Kanthal coil and is a Lost Vapes pod, however, it is not compatible with the DNA Orion. The 1 ohm kanthal coil is not compatible with the original Orion but you can force the Orion to recognize the pod. Because the DNA Go board is designed for pod resistances from 0.2 to 0.5 ohms, and SS coils are needed for replay, it is not recommended.
It'll work but not well and not at all with replay.Hopes this will prevent Orion users from thinking this 1 ohm pod is compatible with the original Orion replay feature. Have a great day.
I built a custom profile for this pod, as it was available in a store near my house. I went with 5 wattage options to see what worked best for me ranging from 8w to 16w.
8w seemed a little weak, but 10 seems to be the sweet spot for me. I have the boost set at 0 across the board, the warmth at 1 across the board, MTL disabled, and the resistance set to 0.8 to 1.2 per op's instructions.I toyed around with the airflow a little, and found that 30-40% airflow performed the best for me. 12w worked well, also, but it was hitting fine on 10w so I left it there.
There is a generous amount of cotton in these compared to the 0.5 pods. No problems at all with dry hits or harsh hits, and the flavor is phenomenal.It works perfectly fine in the Orion with the DNA Go board as long as you follow the OP's instructions on setting up the profile with the correct resistance range so that the device recognizes it.Edited January 28 by Dunder Mifflin. If you managed to get some of the new Orion 1.0 ohm pods and want to use them before they put out an official update for the DNA Orion versus the new non-DNA Orion Q, then you do so by putting your eScribe into manufacturer mod, and setting the resistance range of one of the modes within the range of the pod. I have mine set in 'DL' mode to.8 and 1.2 and then the wattages from 8-15 watts through the three modes. This lets me still have my MTL mode for.5 ohm pods.
I have a feeling it may take a while for Evolv to get around to the update, so there is your cheater way to set it up for functionality.However, the device seems to want to fire only up to 12 watts for some reason according to the active monitoring. Thats sufficient for 1.0 ohm, but there definitely seems to be a ceiling and honestly it doesnt vape well enough to warrant me going into deeper settings or analytics to find out why.Also, a quick aside, the pod is designed differently for a 1 ohm with what seems to be extra plastic molding for more doming and restriction towards the top of the coil section of the pod in effort to make it more 'Mouth to Lung' but it fails pretty badly. They tried to restrict it to feel more MTL like a juul, zero, suorin, etc pod system, but you have to run it either with just a pinhole or completely off to make it feel similar to any true MTL style system. It will also still cough you to death and hits very, very rough with air restricted to what I would consider MTL levels with nicotine salts. It vapes fine in direct to lung with possibly a little bit better flavor versus the.5 pod. Its not going to do well as a true MTL pod with their current airflow configurations.In the new Orion Q, it vapes pretty much the same but just slightly stronger.
Probably a preset voltage or wattage setting on a sliding scale depending on the pod inserted.I am using Orion dna go with 0.5 ohm pods and it works perfectly. I recently bought 1.0 pods and changed settings exactly the way you said but something seems weird. Can you tell me what boost did you set for what wattages? I built a custom profile for this pod, as it was available in a store near my house. I went with 5 wattage options to see what worked best for me ranging from 8w to 16w. 8w seemed a little weak, but 10 seems to be the sweet spot for me. I have the boost set at 0 across the board, the warmth at 1 across the board, MTL disabled, and the resistance set to 0.8 to 1.2 per op's instructions.I toyed around with the airflow a little, and found that 30-40% airflow performed the best for me.
12w worked well, also, but it was hitting fine on 10w so I left it there. There is a generous amount of cotton in these compared to the 0.5 pods. No problems at all with dry hits or harsh hits, and the flavor is phenomenal.It works perfectly fine in the Orion with the DNA Go board as long as you follow the OP's instructions on setting up the profile with the correct resistance range so that the device recognizes it.Why did you set boost to 0?And how do you disable MTL mode?Thank you! My inputs after trying the 1.0 ohm pods.In MTL mode, I setup 5 profiles from 8 to 12 with zero boost. In device monitor it maxs out at about 12 watts.I also made sure to adjust the MTL ohms settings 08. This is so that the mod will recognize the 1.0 ohm pod.The setting for warmth in replay is not applicable, hence I did not bother adjusting.Verdict (using 25mg salt nic Rush juice) - The throat hit is much smoother.
When using the 0.5 ohm pod I was getting a nice throat hit but at times it feels 'harsh'. With the 1.0 pod at 12watts setting, I am getting a throat hit that has the impact but not as 'harsh' (for the lack of a better word). Stronger vapours with the adjustment slightly open, and overall I would say a 10% improvement in my vaping pleasure. My inputs after trying the 1.0 ohm pods.In MTL mode, I setup 5 profiles from 8 to 12 with zero boost. In device monitor it maxs out at about 12 watts.I also made sure to adjust the MTL ohms settings 08. This is so that the mod will recognize the 1.0 ohm pod.The setting for warmth in replay is not applicable, hence I did not bother adjusting.Verdict (using 25mg salt nic Rush juice) - The throat hit is much smoother.
When using the 0.5 ohm pod I was getting a nice throat hit but at times it feels 'harsh'. With the 1.0 pod at 12watts setting, I am getting a throat hit that has the impact but not as 'harsh' (for the lack of a better word). Stronger vapours with the adjustment slightly open, and overall I would say a 10% improvement in my vaping pleasure.Where do you go in escribe to change the device ohms settings? I can't find the tab for this/the page.
I bought the 1.0ohm pods but my device can't read them.